D Day Invasions, Mont-St-Michel, Loire Valley

I wanted to see the beaches that were used during the D-Day invasion. 

Arromanches les Bains faces the English Channel and still has the remains of the temporary harbours that were floated across to assist the logistics of landing so much equipment and so many troops for the invasion by combined Commonweath forces. The beach, Gold Beach – named in WWII, had the remains of these temporary breakwaters – called Mulberry after the military code name. 

On D-Day, 6 amphibious divisions supported by 6000 boats and ships and 13,000 aircraft were involved landing 45,000 troops for the initial invasion that was the start of the liberation of Europe.

The French are sticklers for tradition and I was thinking that the big lunchtime close down would have been overtaken by modernity – apparently not. So in this windswept town there were tourists mooching around in drizzle waiting for things to open - everything closed, tourist office, museum the lot. No shared lunch shifts here. I wonder what the employees do with their 2 hours?

The experience was completed by a visit to the nearby American cemetery. The Americans landed at Omaha and Utah beach while the Commonwealth forces landed at Gold/Sword/Juno beaches. The American cemetery was extremely well done. Everything was immaculate, the marble crosses and stars that marked the graves were cut as if by laser and laid out in absolutely straight lines. The crosses were endless. The trees and lawns groomed to within an inch of their lives. It was all so beautifully done by the Americans. While it was raining I watched some audio visuals in the elegantly understated white marble visitor centre.

That evening we stayed at our best aire so far, it was behind a manor farm house ,which beside raising dairy cows, had a sideline in tourist accommodation. Rural outlook, a large gravelled area to park and a large grassed and hedged area beside us. The neighbouring property held an ancient stone building with an information board in front of it describing it as a 14^th century chateau. It needed some major ‘Grand Design Restoration’ but was a working cidery that also sold Calvados (apple brandy) and Pommeau – apple brandy diluted with apple juice. So we did our bit for the local economy.

Stuart cycling toward MSM

Stuart wanted to re-visit Mont St Michel, further along the Normandy coastline. It is an abbey perched on top of an island and looks impressive when you see it from a distance, like a church floating on water. Forty years ago we roared across the causeway on Stuart’s Moto Guzzi, parked at the base and had a wander around. Not much about the abbey and the cluster of shops at the base selling tat and over-priced snacks has changed but the approach has.

The island was in danger of becoming joined to the land by silt collected against the causeway, so the causeway was removed and replaced by a bridge and system of barrages and dam to regulate the flow of water. There are huge 15 metre tides that swirl around the island, some incoming tides move quicker than a galloping horse across the mudflats. At low springtide the sea is 15km offshore.

Back to the approach – 40 years on we cycled to the bike stands, left Howard and Hilda in steely bondage and walked quite some distance to the new bridge. On the way back we were lucky enough to get on a push-me pull-you shuttle bus. (The buses don’t turn around but the driver moves from one end to the other).

 Persistent showers/rain accompanied us as we drove over 300km from Mont St Michel to the Loire Valley. There had been a lot of rain in the previous weeks and the Loire was grey and had flooded out campsites and other places that looked attractive to stay – well attractive if the sky had cracked open a shaft or two to let some light in. The aire we stopped at was next to/part of a council works depot but free. It had once been a milk factory. Even at the council depot all the hedges are trimmed as if with a set square, it seems to be a part of the French national pride to have well groomed foliage. There were tubs tumbling with pink petunias and begonias all beautifully maintained like the other gardens in the street.

The Loire had once been an important route for carrying goods but it is an unpredictable river as we discovered and lost out the transport business as rail developed.

We filled up on water before we left – much against Stuart’s desire – “ tankful is the weight of two people you know”, but it was free so there are two opposing forces in action here.

We had decided to stay in Saumur in the Loire Valley, again we are at an aire but it is very large and set among trees, unfortunately the flooding has caused the mosquito population to explode. They are massive beasts but quite slow moving.

We have pressed Howard and Hilda into action to transport us around. There are 800km of cycle ways in the Loire Valley, the highlight so far is the troglodyte ride. It was great, the piste went through some restored underground dwellings and shops that date back the 11^th century. They were carved out of tufa, limestone rock, and were well below the level where people are living now. These man made caves are know as troglodyte houses to the locals. Their temperature in the caves is very cool and the outside air is more humid than an Auckland summer. I could feel the draughts of cool air that created patches of mist as I walked past the cave openings.

An undergrouond cycle path

A dismounted cyclist

Umbrellas in Saumur

Saumur is a lovely town overlooked by its chateau, when we visited there were crowds of elegantly dressed women pressing into the numerous clothing shops that were offering sales. We are headed towards serious chateaux country soon but so far are enjoying the food and wine here. Will keep you posted.